What pomade acne is
Pomade acne is a type of breakout caused by hair products. The name comes from pomade, a thick, waxy styling product. But any greasy hair product can do it: gels, oils, leave-in conditioners, pomades, waxes, and some heavy shampoos.
The technical name is acne cosmetica, which just means acne caused by cosmetics. Dermatologists have known about it for decades. It was first described in the 1970s, and it is still common today because heavy styling products are more popular than ever.
It happens when a product's oils or waxes sit on the skin, slide into pores, and plug them. Once a pore is plugged, oil and dead skin pile up behind it, and a bump forms.
How to recognize it
Pomade acne looks different from regular acne. It shows up as many small, uniform bumps. They are usually skin-colored or slightly red, not big painful cysts. You may see tiny whiteheads and blackheads mixed in.
The location is the giveaway. It clusters along the hairline, the forehead, and the temples, right where product-coated hair touches skin. If you sleep on your side, you may also get it on your cheek, because the product rubs off onto your pillow and then onto your face.
If your breakouts started or got worse after you began using a new product, that is another strong clue.
Why some products cause it and others do not
The worst offenders are products made with petroleum jelly, mineral oil, lanolin, coconut oil, cocoa butter, and heavy silicones. These are called comedogenic, which means they tend to clog pores. Thick waxes and oils also melt a little with body heat and sweat, so they spread onto the skin during the day.
Water-based gels and lighter creams are less likely to cause trouble. Look for the words non-comedogenic or oil-free on the label. Those are not perfect guarantees, but they are a good start.
People with naturally oily skin, curly or textured hair that needs more product, and people who wear hats or headbands are more likely to get pomade acne.
How to stop it
The fix starts with the product. Switch to a lighter, water-based styling product, and use less of it. Apply it to the lengths of your hair, not the roots, so it stays off your scalp and forehead.
Keep hair off your face when you can. Wash your face after styling your hair, and again before bed. Change your pillowcase a few times a week. Wipe down hats and headbands.
Give the change six to eight weeks. Pores take time to clear, and new bumps may keep surfacing for a few weeks even after you stop the product.
Treatments that speed things up
An over-the-counter cleanser with 2% salicylic acid helps dissolve the plugs in pores. Use it along the hairline once or twice a day. Benzoyl peroxide can help if the bumps are red.
If the bumps do not clear, a prescription retinoid such as tretinoin is the treatment dermatologists reach for. Tretinoin unclogs pores and keeps them from clogging again. It is also the most studied treatment for comedonal acne, which is what pomade acne is.
Zen IV Spa offers tretinoin for $99 and a complete acne and rosacea program for $119. A licensed clinician reviews your skin by video and ships treatment to your home in New York and New Jersey.
Common mistakes
Scrubbing hard. Physical scrubs can irritate skin and make bumps redder. Gentle cleansing wins.
Switching to a product labeled natural. Natural oils like coconut oil are among the most pore-clogging ingredients there are.
Picking. Pomade acne bumps are small and tempting to squeeze, but picking leaves dark marks that take months to fade.
Where to go from here
If you have changed your hair products and the bumps along your hairline are still there, our skin clinicians can help. Learn about tretinoin and the acne program on the Zen IV Spa skin page at /skin/, or book a free video visit at https://zenivspa.zenoti.com/webstoreNew/services. You can also call (332) 239-2005.
Common Questions
Is pomade acne the same as regular acne?+
It is a form of acne, but the cause is different. Regular acne is driven by hormones and oil production. Pomade acne is caused by product sitting on the skin and plugging pores.
How long does pomade acne take to go away?+
Usually six to eight weeks after you stop the product. Adding salicylic acid or a prescription retinoid can speed that up.
Which hair products are safest?+
Water-based gels and light creams labeled non-comedogenic or oil-free. Avoid petroleum jelly, mineral oil, lanolin, and coconut oil.
Can shampoo cause pomade acne?+
Yes, especially heavy conditioning shampoos. Rinse well and wash your face after rinsing your hair.
Does it leave scars?+
Rarely, because the bumps are small. Picking can leave dark marks, so leave them alone.
Sources: American Academy of Dermatology patient guidance on acne caused by hair products; Plewig, Fulton and Kligman, Pomade Acne, Archives of Dermatology 1970; Mayo Clinic acne treatment information.
All treatments are medical services. Every guest is screened, and every treatment is prescribed by a licensed provider. Nothing on this page is medical advice for you personally, and the opinions summarized here belong to the doctors named, not to Zen IV Spa. Talk to a provider before starting or stopping anything.
